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Sat Oct 28 08:08:47 EDT 2017
Slept from midnight to seven. Woke briefly around four.
High of forty-six and partly sunny today.
Goals:
- Go web stuff
Not much.
- Laundry
Done.
- Prime miniatures
Done.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43WBYCcrsyc
WARHAMMER - How to Paint Citadel Miniatures (DVDRip)
I should have watched this before I assembled and primed all the miniatures.
- Buy a small flush cutter, like the Hakko CHP-170 or Xuron 170-ii.
- Plastic glue gives a stronger bond than super glue. It's also slightly less quick setting and more rubbery, giving time to make fine adjustments to bonds (e.g., aligning arms with guns, etc.).
- Is there any advantage of the "mold line remover tool" over the back edge of a hobby knife?
- Use Emory boards to polish away cut marks.
- Rubber gloves are handy when spray priming.
- A square or flat "painting stick" acts as a handle for painting one or more miniatures. Use double-sided tape to affix minis to the stick.
- Use a pallet to minimize dipping directly in paint jars, and to wipe excess paint from the brush.
- Citadel "base paints" have a high concentration of pigment for covering the primer opaquely.
- Add _a little_ water when working with base paints to help flow.
- Don't forget that we can choose to _not_ paint some areas with the primary base color (but don't worry about being too neat/fiddly).
- Paint the eyes last.
- Citadel "shade" paints are used as washes to flow into recessed/shadow areas.
- We probably don't need to use as much shade as we might initially think. A little goes a long way.
- Allow the shade at least thirty minutes to dry before painting over it.
- A light-hued wash over a white base coat "glows" enough that further highlights may be unnecessary.
- Citadel "dry compound" is made for dry-brushing raised areas/highlights.
- Remember to dry-brush before doing any final spot/detail work.
- Citadel "layer" paints are for highlight areas, to be painted over base areas.
- Don't paint layer paint into recessed areas. Use a light, conservative hand and don't overload the brush with paint.
- A second layer of lighter-hued is where the effect really shines.
- With layer paints, don't cover the entire under-area. Paint smaller and smaller raised regions.
- Glazes are translucent. They're inks that alter/intensify the original hue over which they wash.
- Control glazes carefully. Don't overload the brush. Two thin layers are better than one messy, thick one.
- Glazes can be used to tone-down highlights.
- Citadel "texture paint" has actual grit. Use it on bases. Let it dry for an hour.
I guess layer paints and dry-brushed highlights are an either/or thing?
Probably, one or the other technique looks better for certain areas.
Layered highlight are certainly more time-consuming.
I'm not entirely convinced layering provides much of an advantage over dry-brushing in most circumstances, considering the time involved.
Tidied up apartment a little.
Twenty-minute walk in the late afternoon.
It turned into a cold, gray day.
Lots of leaves on the ground, smelling pleasantly damp and earthy.
A quarter of the trees have lost all their leaves, while another quarter are still mostly green.
Saw a crow.
My home workstation will be five years old in a month.
The i7-3770K with 32G RAM has served me well.
The only upgrade I've made is moving from spinning disk to SSD.
I don't feel any urgent performance need to upgrade, although I wouldn't mind a more energy-efficient CPU.
Lunch: coffee, carrots, spinach, chicken pot pie
Dinner: pizza
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