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<h1>Woodworking</h1>

<p>Last week I shopped-around for a hardwood bookcase with nice joinery. I couldn't find what I wanted at any price, and even screwed-together wood laminate bookshelves were ridiculously expensive. I thought to myself "I could make a nice hardwood bookcase fairly cheaply; how hard could it be?" Based on my experience with other hobbies (particularly audiophile stuff) I know that by the time I buy the tools and learn the skills to do it myself those $1000 bookshelves will start to look pretty reasonably priced. But I'm due for a new hobby....</p>

<p>The last time I did any woodworking, I was twelve years old. I'm going into this knowing little about woodworking. I don't even own a saw. I'll makes notes about what I learn below. Hopefully, someone else will find my notes useful (and they'll act as reminders for me).</p>

<h2>Getting started</h2>

<p>I'm discovering that there are a wide range of woodworking sub-hobbies like boat building and pen turning. The area that interest me most at this point is furniture making using hand tools. Specifically, I want to hand build a hardwood bookshelf using dovetail joints. (I'll build other stuff too.)</p>

<p>One piece of advise which struck me as particularly good is to only buy the tools you need when you're starting out. Here's the stuff I need to make a bookshelf with dovetail joints:</p>

<ul>
	<li>A workbench. I settled on the Black &amp; Decker Workmate 225. It's small, portable, and folds-up, which is good for me because I live in an apartment without room for a dedicated full size, full time workbench. Once I have a house with a shed or basement I will certainly build a large, sturdy workbench.</li>
	<li>A crosscut saw. I bought a Japanese ryoba which has a crosscut edge on one side and a rip edge on the other side. The Japanese saws are interesting in that they cut on the pull stroke, which seems to make them buckle less during cutting.</li>
	<li>A dovetail saw. Dovetail saws have a narrower blade and more teeth for more precise cuts. I bought a Japanese one, which cuts on the pull stroke.</li>
	<li>Bevel edge wood chisels. I bought a set of four Blue Chip chisels, which included a 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", and 1" chisels. Based on my thus far limited experience, the 1/4" and 1/2" seem to be the most useful for cutting dovetails.</li>
	<li></li>
	<li>Sharpening stuff. You must have a way to sharpen your chisels and planes; most of them just don't come very sharp from the manufacturer. I bought a sharpening system with silicon carbide sandpaper adhered to plate glass. Unlike a whetstone, the plate glass will stay perfectly flat. The sandpaper is replaceable.</li>
	<li></li>
	<li></li>
</ul>

<h2>Rasps, files, and scrapers</h2>

<p>Rasps and files let you shape wood in ways that would be impossible or difficult with saws or chisels. They can be used to make organic curved shapes, for example.</p>

<p>Rasps are of various coursenesses; from most course to least: <i>wood</i> rasps, <i>cabinent</i> rasps (<i>bastard</i>, <i>second</i>, and <i>smooth</i>), and <i>pattern maker's</i> rasps. Files are less course than rasps. Files, from most to least coarse, are <i>coarse</i>, <i>bastard</i>, <i>second</i>, and <i>smooth</i>.</p>

<h2>Resources</h2>

<p>One surprisingly active and friendly woodworking forum is <a href="http://lumberjocks.com/">Lumberjocks</a>.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.rockler.com">Rockler</a> is a woodworking specialty store, which happens to have a branch in my area. The staff has been pretty helpful to me.</p>

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